DECEMBER 21, 2024
Welcome to the ScentAdvice Awards!
In this lengthy article I take you through my 25 favorite discoveries this year and my 25 favorite new releases of 2024.
First, I want to thank everyone who has used the ScentAdvice site or app this year and welcome first-time visitors. This week, the website surpassed 2 million visits, exceeding my projections for 2024. Aside from that, the r/newfragrances Reddit group is growing quickly, as it’s found its 3000th member last week. Not unimportant, the earnings from commissions have made it possible to upgrade the website to faster servers, improving the experience, especially for mobile / app user. The best way to support ScentAdvice is by using it as a stepping stone for your next purchase (for example via the Discounts page). Plenty of reasons to celebrate…
At the end of the awards, you will find the end of year GIVEAWAY, where you can win 10 of the fragrances that made it on to one of the lists. I hope you take some time out of your day to read through the Awards to learn about 50 fragrances that are worth checking out. There may even be a midway rant (yes, a rant) If I could’ve hired Ricky Gervais to roast the state of the perfume industry, I would’ve. Enjoy your reading!
As is tradition (this being the second time counts as a tradition right?), I start off with my favorite discoveries during 2024, before diving into the best new releases from this year. The following list are fragrances that came out in earlier years, that I (properly) tried and reviewed for the first time during 2024. The main reason for including these, is that there are some fragrances that would’ve been worthy of last years’ awards, but I didn’t get around to them in time. Point in case; there are many 2023 releases on this list.
Disclaimer: Fragrances are listed with [#AD] only to state that I received a bottle as PR previously. There has been no involvement, influence or payments to alter the ranking. Similarly, brands who participate in the giveaway were contacted by me, after compiling the list and this has had no effect on the ranking (and several of the fragrances in the giveaway are not gifted by a brand, but out of my own pocket).
Look back at 2023
Last year’s top discoveries were #1 🥇 Jazeel Ghala, #2 🥈 Etat Libre D’Orange Experimentum Crucis & #3 🥉 Les Abstraits Belle Ame. I definitely stand behind this ranking a year later. I still own all the fragrances that I had from the list, with the exception of #20 Oman Luxury Angham; a great release, but not the easiest wear. Electimuss Pomona Vitalis & Maison Sybarite Bed Of Roses are the two from last year’s discoveries that are still on my wishlist currently.
Honorable mentions
I did not to include fragrances of which I’ve only smelled a vintage version, as the (sampling) experience with those can vary to extremes. Some of the best in that category that I discovered this year were Yves Rocher Venice EDT, Yves Rocher 8e Jour EDT, and Estee Lauder Youth-Dew EDP. There were at least 3 fragrances that I’d already reviewed in earlier years, but re-reviewed this year, that definitely would’ve made this list: Xerjoff XXY, Eris Parfums Mxxx. & Eris Parfums Ma Bete.
MY FAVORITE DISCOVERIES
25. Aedes de Venustas Cafe Tabac (2023)
Bertrand Duchaufour
Not my favorite from Aedes de Venustas (my favorite is higher up in this list), but a worthy newer addition for this excellent brand. The type of fragrance that Aedes had room for in their collection, as it’s a bit darker and sweeter, but Duchafour kept it well-balanced and mature, so it fits in with the brand’s DNA.
24. Chris Collins Kingmaker – Master Of Oud (2023)
Hamid Merati-Kashani
My favorite Chris Collins so far, due to the fact that it dares to take a risk. This is not your average accessible oud, but one of the more skanky and daring ouds that you’re be able to find at the bigger retailers where you may find Chris Collins. I wouldn’t wear this frequently myself, but I applaud its boldness.
23. Montale Nepal Aoud (2014)
To find a Montale on this list was a surprise to myself, especially an older Montale, as I find most of them bordering on obnoxious. Nepal Aoud ironically is, obnoxious, screechy, loud,. It’s Montale to its core, but it fits the scent profile perfectly. Skanky oud and a fresher, sourish side with rose (not at all your typical rose oud). Think of the contrast in the direction of Sarah Baker Symmetry. I was caught off-guard by this one, in a good way.
22. Regalien EFIL (2023)
Last year, I briefly smelled Efil and didn’t give it a second thought, while Dem from the same collection made the best of 2023 list. Dem is still my favorite by a large margin, but after giving Efil a proper wearing, I liked it a lot more than I figured. A thinner, ‘airy’ soapy and floral scent with a fluffy apple hint that grows ever so slightly sweeter and milky smooth.
21. Parle Moi de Parfum Comete Paradis / 62 (2023)
Michel Almairac
A great mix of spicy dry vanilla and milky vanilla. Woody, with the coconut and cacao notes being more understated; this is everything I hoped Matiere Premiere Vanilla Powder would be. I still owe it to myself and the brand to explore Parle Moi de Parfum better in 2025.
20. Robert Greco Rauque (2023)
Christopher Sheldrake
As with Greco’s previous offerings, this is an acquired taste. It reminds me of a mature hay (tobacco) scent, with a tinge of dried fruits, spices and a tiny hint of Fahrenheit-esque gasoline. Textures are great in this fragrance. Happy to have tried it, but while I had some FOMO when I didn’t buy it (the limited edition sold out), I can’t see myself wearing this often.
19. Strangelove NYC Lostinflowers EDP (2017)
Christophe Laudamiel
My second favorite from Laudamiel’s Strangelove creations (the other follows later in this list). I smelled this before, but I finally tried the collection properly this year and it’s been worth the wait. Lostinflowers feels best described as ‘wonderfully unsettling’. Pretty flowers, a lot of lily-of-the-valley, acidic, but surprisingly sweet and dense for those type of florals. A complex wear that I probably don’t fully understand yet.
18. Jeroboam Unue (2020)
Vanina Muracciole
The opening of this one was rough to me, but it becomes lovely after. Aldehydic, laundry detergent with a fruitiness, a lot of jasmine and a smooth (sandal)wood base. Like a fruitier take on Guerlain Samsara. Very likely my favorite from Jeroboam.
17. Tauer Nexin (2023)
Andy Tauer
The first couple of thoughts on this (limited) release that I read or heard painted a mixed reception, but I was instantly appreciative of it; arguably my favorite Tauer alongside L’Air Du Desert Marocain. Picture a signature citrussy Acqua Di Parma-esque cologne, but creamier, almost buttery in texture. A strong dose of matching florals (orange blossom) follows.
16. Reine de Saba Aksoum (2022)
Dominique Ropion
The first hours of this fragrance are top notch and one of my favorites for a fresher scent. Citrussy, bergamot and floral, but almost creamy. It feels like a fresher take on a sun-tan lotion or hand cream. It grows sweeter in the drydown, becoming more generic to me and losing some of its magic, but this was a great release overall.
15. Wolf Brothers Goat (2021)
Laurent Marrone
One of my biggest surprises of 2024. To be brutally honest, I ordered two of the Wolf Brothers samples as a bit of a joke; a novelty to review, because of their eccentric notes (this lists goat milk, mushroom, truffle & fur). To my surprise, Bear was good and Goat even more so. I get a creamy fruitiness and animalic leather. It feels like an expensive fragrance for the money. It’s a tad daring, but this brand has exceeded my expectations so far.
You can win this fragrance below!
14. Guerlain Rose Centifolia Extrait 1 (2023)
Thierry Wasser & Delphine Jelk
The price made this release hard to justify, but this is a lovely, vibrant rose and definitely my favorite of these Guerlain Extraits. It feels like more of a full perfume than the others in this collection to me; with earthy tones, a greener rose, a sharp citrussy edge. It reminds me of several of my favorites like Jazeel Ghala & Frederic Malle Une Rose/Rose Tonnerre at first, with a hint of Portrait Of A Lady later on. Starting denser and revealing more brightness as it dries, like a reverse progression from what one would expect.
13. Majda Bekkali Mon Nom Est Rouge (2012)
Cecile Zarokian
I debated ranking this in my top 10, as I absolutely love it. The reason I ended up leaving it a bit further down the list, is that Mon Nom Est Rouge falls in Cecile’s lineage of Epic Woman, Epic 56 & Rose Aqor. The Majda Bekkali is the sweetest, most incense-heavy take on the DNA, but my heart lies with the others (Epic 56 especially). Still, I may have to add this to the collection as well one day.
12. Thomas de Monaco Sol Salgado (2023) [#AD]
Maurus Bachmann
Sol Salgado felt like a whole new experience for me when I revisited it this year. And it has grown on me with every wear since. Perhaps still not the most eccentric or original fragrance from the brand, but it has become my favorite Thomas de Monaco (although there is something more special about the original batch of Raw Gold). Perhaps my favorite rendition of a sea breeze, sun tan-esque vanilla and one of my most worn fragrances recently.
You can win this fragrance below!
11. Acqua Di Parma Profumo (1930)
This year, I finally added Profumo to my collection after smelling it in stores a dozen times. This is an old Acqua di Parma release, which has been re-released several times, like in 2000 and 2009, and it’s one of the more obscure ones (it also doesn’t help that it’s probably their most expensive, which is why it took me a while to acquire it). This still smells vintage, with a green, mossy vibe that over time gets a bit honeyed. It’s said that Profumo takes inspiration from Guerlain Mitsouko, which I can image to be true. Given that my vintage bottle of Mitsouko is arguably my favorite fragrance ever, Profumo has no shame standing in its shadow.
10. Angelos Creations Olfactives Salon dt (2021)
Angelos Balamis
I first encountered Angelos and his creations at the Paris Perfume Week in 2023. The fragrance that stood out to me from his collection was Salon dt, followed by Irida. Salon dt stuck with me and I had to get it into my collection shortly after. This is a tea scent, but it wears more like a tobacco. Bitter tea leaves, bergamot for that Earl Grey vibe, but growing spicier. A honeyed sweetness, but not as prominent as in fragrances like Naxos, Herod or Tobacco Vanille; this is more serious. Not too heavy or dense, but on the dark side for tea and I have trouble thinking of a tea fragrance that I appreciate more.
You can win this fragrance below!
09. Une Nuit Nomade Nothing But Sea And Sky (2020)
Anne-Sophie Behaghel
One of the nicest, soft sandalwood fragrances that I’ve tried. It feels very simple, but cozy and the sandalwood is a pleasure to wear. It has a neutral scent profile, with only a citrussy opening to set it apart; bergamot and what I perceive as orange ice cream or even a balmy orange candle aiding the zen-like woods. I love how smooth it is, which does eat away at its performance a bit, but it will be hard to find as great of a woody scent at the Une Nuit Nomade price point.
08. Superfumista Infra Rose (2023)
Benjamin Sachs
Perhaps one of the more straight-forward, or at least mass-appealing and easy-going scents on the list. Infra Rose is a truly vibrant, oily rose. Fruity, acidic, with lychee. but much fresher and brighter than for example MFK Oud Satin Mood. And a soapy, white musk. It’s vivid and perfect for warmer weather and ‘white t-shirt’ aesthetics. Few fragrances feel as uplifting as this one to me. The quality as I perceive it that you get here, makes all the difference. This is to a bright rose for me, what Ostens Impression Jasmine Absolute is for jasmine. One of my most worn fragrances, since the Summer.
You can win this fragrance below!
07. Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie Pierre de Velay No. 6 (2009)
Roja Dove
My favorite out of the Pierre De Velay releases that I’ve tried. This is a heavier one, pulling towards masculine leaning fragrances like Roja Parfums Diaghilev or Reckless at first, with a warmer, fiery vintage-esque floral core that mirrors Roja’s best (like Parfums de La Nuit 1). I would have to be in the mood to wear this fragrance, but there is something about the sheer depth that it has in its composition (my presumption is that it comes from the use of castoreum?) that’s hard to find these days. The drydown also reminds me of #3 of this list a bit.
06. Scents Of Wood NFT1 (2023)
Pascal Gaurin
This missed last year’s list courtesy of the bottle arriving later than planned. Frankly, the Scents Of Wood NFT project has been a bit of a mess as far as communication and staying on schedule, but NFT1 made up for it instantly. Aromatic and sweet, sort of like Nishane Ani, but even better. (Baby)Powdery vanilla like a vintage Guerlain and for example Maison Violet Sketch, but upgraded for modern times. A (mostly hidden) gem that I wouldn’t be mad at Scents Of Wood for if they decide to bring it back in their regular line one day, so that more people can experience it.
05. Aedes Iris Nazarena (2013)
Ralf Schwieger
Given that I have an iris tattoo, it’s safe to say I like iris a little bit more than the average perfume enthusiast. And Iris Nazarena is undoubtedly one of the best iris fragrances ever created. It balances the brighter, dry, almost stark side with a spicier (clove-heavy) path perfectly. I have a couple dozen iris-heavy fragrances in my collection and no real need for Iris Nazarena, which is probably the only reason I didn’t include it in the top 3, but I still feel the need to add this to my shelves sooner or later.
04. Strangelove NYC Meltmyheart EDP (2015)
Christophe Laudamiel
When I first sniffed Strangelove, Meltmyheart was the one that stood out and after wearing them this year, Meltmyheart is definitely the one for me. I find this less chocolate-heavy than I initially though; much more focused on the iris, which happens to be my favorite note. The chocolate I smell mostly when sniffing my arm or wrist up close; I don’t find it as gourmand as its often described as. It has a golden hue with some citrus, ginger and yellow flowers to add a welcome levity. Definitely one that’s completely up my alley and I hope to be able to add Meltmyheart to my collection one day.
03. Prissana Mandarava (2018)
Prin Lomros
Throughout the years, I’ve sampled a couple dozen of Prin’s works and from those, Mandarava is his Magnum Opus as far as I’m concerned. It’s not an easy-going one, especially in the opening, with some daring facets, earthiness and smokiness. It’s often seen as a leather scent, but it wears more woody and ambery to me. It turns into a rough, fiery amber, but the beauty and magic lies in the florals. Almost metallic champaca, jasmine, rose… it feels elevated. Comparable to the few things that I’ve smelled from Ensar Oud and honestly, for me, Mandarava trumps anything that I’ve tried from Areej Le Dore (Ottoman Empire III being the closest) or Bortnikoff. Given that Mandarava is $160/30ml, that’s quite an achievement. Not an every day wear, but not all brute force and challenging either; Mandarava has a beautiful ‘rose that grew from concrete’ type of balance.
02. Christian Provenzano Santal Indien Extrait (2023)
Christian Provenzano
I had Santal Indien Extrait taking the top spot in early drafts of this list. The reason I’m not committing to it, is because I don’t have a bottle and don’t know it as well, so I figured it would be fair to leave some room for my opinion on it to change. That being said, Santal Indien Extrait seems to be the sandalwood fragrance that I’ve been looking for. A focused, straight-forward sandalwood has been an ‘open spot’ in my collection and I’ve been circling options to fill it with. Santal Indien Extrait is quite singular, mostly just woody, but it has different details in there, with smooth milkiness, camphor and saffron as one of the few defining notes. It grows a bit sweeter, but subtle and vanillic, not to the point of a sugary overdose like many (faux) sandalwood fragrances. A contemplative scent that may not wow you unless you’re specifically looking for a great sandalwood and pay attention to the depth and the details; to me, this is to sandalwood, what Xerjoff Irisss is to iris. When my financial situation improves and/or I find a great deal, I hope Santal Indien Extrait joins my permanent collection.
01. Creed Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie
I’m not sure if I have ever contemplated a top spot for a ranking as much as with this particular list. The previous couple of fragrances all have been serious contenders and there was no clear answer of which fragrance to crown my #1 discovery of the year. I ended up going with Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie, due to the element of surprise. See, I’ve never been a Creed fan. If anything, a lot of my peers know me as outspokenly skeptic towards Creed (the myths surrounding their legacy don’t help). There are very few Creed fragrances that would be able to make any of my lists (perhaps Spice And Wood). This year, I ordered a sample of Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie randomly and for the first time in 5 years into this fragrance hobby, I truly connected with the house of Creed. Here, I can picture the claims of ‘higher quality of ingredients’ used. While it’s safe to say this wasn’t released in 1862 as once claimed (other sources now say 1982 or 1989), it surely feels vintage. If you’re not a fan of vintage, (baby) powdery scents, you’re probably not going to love this. And honestly, I’m not as much wowed by the overall scent profile (aldehydes, bergamot, sweet and white florals), as I am by the sandalwood. This fragrance has a lot of overlap with Guerlain Samsara and just as vintage Samsara up to a certain year is universally praised for its natural sandalwood, I find that magic in Jasmin Imperatrice Eugenie. It outgrows Samsara in sweetness, to the point where you start noticing Shalimar-esque cues as well, but it keeps a powdery and floral aesthetic. Maybe the fact that it averted my expectations, boosts its ranking too much, but in general, this is a rarely ever mentioned and nearly forgotten Creed release, so I’m happy to give it the spotlight.
You can win this fragrance below!
Here’s something you don’t hear in the usual award ceremonies: 2024 wasn’t a great year for (niche) perfumery. We saw a lot of brands hopping on trends and losing character. And when they weren’t, they were banking on existing releases and one brand after another released concentration flankers to their hit songs, often resulting in solid fragrances, but at unnecessarily hiked prices. And don’t get me wrong, some of those were worthy additions & made my lists, but generally speaking, this practice has not fared well for my taste.
Taking a broader view, I think 2024 will go down in history as the year (bigger) niche brands and stores were confronted with more affordable fragrances, clone fragrances, Middle Eastern brands, body mists and of course, the biggest trend of 2024, full-on gourmands with trendy sounding notes. And the matching marketing that comes with the territory. And instead of accepting their faith of being a niche (you know, it’s in the definition of the word), a lot of of them tried to jump on the bandwagon. My prediction is that this will backfire in the long-run; I paint for you the picture of a €400 niche, a €100 Middle Eastern one and a €30 clone version sitting side by side in a Harrods and you may guess how that ends up working for the high-end niche brand. Especially if that brand has lost the interest of their initial supporters. It feels like there is a lot of ‘milking it while we can’ is going on in the industry at the moment and I predict the bubble is about to burst. For 2025, I don’t expect to see much of a difference yet and I assume the consumer will be bombarded with as many flankers in the niche space, as they are in the designer realm. Mind you, if niche gets pushed back to its intended audience in years to follow, that would not be bad thing per se. We will have to see.
Of course, it wasn’t all bad, so on to the best releases from 2024. Naturally, I can only speak on the releases that I’ve tried, and worn on skin. There are many fragrances that I’ve not been able to test, so take this list for what it is; one man’s opinion based on limited data.
Disclaimer: Fragrances are listed with [#AD] only to state that I received a bottle as PR previously. There has been no involvement, influence or payments to alter the ranking. Similarly, brands who participate in the giveaway were contacted by me, after compiling the list and this has had no effect on the ranking (and several of the fragrances in the giveaway are not gifted by a brand, but by me).
Look-back at 2023
Last year’s best releases that I tried were: #1 🥇 PureDistance Papilio, #2 🥈 Amouage Jubilation 40 & #3 🥉 Eris Parfums Delta Of Venus. I’m still happy with that ranking, although I purchased my #5 Roja Parfums Taif Aoud in the meantime and would probably rank that #2 if you were to ask me now. Generally, I feel good about last year’s list. I notice (this year as well) that relatively, there are a lot of the bigger niche brands represented; this comes naturally, as those are most ‘important’ or requested to share my thoughts on as a reviewer. I do want to shift focus a bit more towards smaller brands in 2025, as I think it will only improve the quality of the fragrances that get highlighted.
Honorable mention
Xerjoff Im-Perfetto: Probably my favorite of the newest Xerjoff releases, but it hasn’t officially launched yet.
BEST RELEASES OF 2024
25. Maison Tahite Arabican Rose
Marie Duchene
Not ranking nearly as high as Coffee Bomb did last year, but this is another solid release by Maison Tahite; a brand that generally has good releases for reasonable prices. You’ll have to read the full-review, as I was still figuring this fragrance out and my thoughts on it were all over the place, but it definitely has an appeal.
24. Amouage Outlands
Cecile Zarokian
This was the popular and hyped one from The Essences trio this year (spoiler: I much prefer another one, which you will find further up the list). Often compared to Cecile’s Ani, but this is much spicier and darker to me. The reason I don’t love Outlands, is the cardamom, which is sharp, green and prominent. The vanilla used is great and the performance is impressive; overall a solid release.
23. Commodity Juice (Expressive)
Nathalie Benareu
With notes like strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb, I did not expect to like Juice. And I did. I liked it quite a bit. Super vibrant and tart, with berries, but also citrus. I was weary that it would go harsh or overly sweet, but I felt that I stayed pretty fresh and musky. To date, I still haven’t tried the other two versions of Juice, but this Expressive positively surprised me.
22. Electimuss Spice D’Arno [#AD]
Celine Barel
A lot more easy-going than last year’s Vanilla Edesia & Aquila Absolute. I think it’s less interesting of a fragrance, with cues to sweet aromatic designer fragrances, but I would reach for it more. Abstract, mushy, with a manageable leather underneath. I think this is a solid addition to the Electimuss line, albeit not among their absolute best.
21. Prissana Sahar
Prin Lomros
In all honesty, this could probably rank higher, but I don’t remember the scent well enough. Sahar was my favorite of the couple of 2024 works that I’ve tried from Prin. It reminded me of a less gourmand-leaning SM Café. Making it a bit less accessible to wear (as SM Café is already very smoky), but really well-done.
20. Goldfield & Banks Mystic Bliss
Florian Gallo
Mystic Bliss wasn’t really my jam, but I was happy to see Goldfield & Banks not following trends with this and making a remarkably traditional, more retro masculine leaning release (the same could be said for Silky Woods Elixir by the way, so kudos for not taking the easy route). I mostly get juniper from this, with a sparkling texture in the opening. Aromatic, cold, spicy and woody. An aftershave-style scent , without the cheap aquatic ‘shampoo’ facet.
19. Kilian Old Fashioned
Sidonie Lancesseur
What a confusing release this was. Listing notes that match almost exactly with Single Malt, also by Sidonie. Describing a single malt. Not having notes reflecting an old fashioned cocktail. Yet, apparently different from the older Single Malt release? I have not smelled Single Malt and frankly, I went in with 0 expectations in general. Kilian’s output in recent years has been among my least favorites of the bigger brands. But credit where credit is due: Old Fashioned wore really nicely on me. I think it’s the best release for Kilian since Angels’ Share and it reminds me mostly of Nasomatto Baraonda, but more gourmand. It’s like pure sugar syrup in the drydown, which can be a bit much.
18. New Notes Latte Mimosa
As someone who likes powdery fragrances and the scent of mimosa, this one felt just right. It’s not ground-breaking, but a comfort scent for me, that leans heavily into the sweeter facets of mimosa. Instead of creamy latte, I get more of a dry milk powder and it feels dusty and retro. It’s almost palpable in your mouth for a while, before fading out. An acquired, and some would argue outdated, taste perhaps, but one that I enjoyed quite a lot.
17. Superfumista Lemon Delight [#AD]
Benjamin Sachs & Samuele Faccio
Lemon Delight was my second favorite Superfumista (after Infra Rose, which you find in the discoveries list). When I bought Infra Rose, Lemon Delight came as a bonus and it’s one of those ‘guilty pleasure’ gourmands, that I mainly wear to bed. You get lemon, powdery, sour, sharp. Closer to Dama Bianca than Lira and in my opinion, Lemon Delight is significantly nicer than Akro Bake for this style. It makes me think of cookies as it dries. Cookies, a lemon drizzle and maybe 5% of a baby powdery musk, before going full vanilla.
You can win this fragrance below!
16. Parfum D’Empire Un Bel Amour D’Ete
Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
Easily one of the more interesting and unique releases of 2024. To me, this is essentially a sun tan lotion scent, but with very distinct floral (champaca) and spicy touches that set it apart. It has green and fresh side that sticks around; almost medicinal. More importantly, some animalic high-frequency pierces through it all; perhaps it’s just cumin, but I was reminded of civet. Especially since texture-wise I get a fizziness like beer or hops; this type of fizz I’ve also gotten from for example Zoologist Civet. Last year’s list had D:SOL MMXVI Sombre and Gallivant Accra as ’embodiment of what niche is’ on the list; this year, it’s Un Bel Amour D’Été.
15. Xerjoff Iommi Deified
When Xerjoff launched Iommi in 2021, it instantly became one of my favorites from the house. I fell out of love with it last year; I felt it was ‘too much’, too busy, dense and earthy. I truly appreciate it still, but it’s a demanding fragrance to wear, that I could not find occassions for. Iommi Deified strays quite a ways from it, being less eccentric, less harsh. On my skin, the spices are softer, the leather and patchouli are smoother and less pronounced. I do miss the passionfruit and overall, it’s less thrilling. But Deified is more refined, while sticking to a similar theme and it makes arguably for a nicer wear than its predecessor. The quality is there and I feel like this is a bit of a sleeper after the more hyped Iommi.
14. Casamorati Levar Del Sole
Levar Del Sole has a lot of the makings of a fragrance that I would usually be critical of, but it makes it work. This feels airy, thin with a ton of sugary, caramelized sweetness. It blends with woods and what I perceived as cloves. The tiniest orange hue creeps in at times, but it’s quite singular and bare-boned. It’s devoid of any texture and richness as a hyper-modern feeling fragrance. Linear, but… it smells nice. There were wafts where I was transported to Fragrance du Bois Sahraa, in a simplified way. I feel like Levar Del Sole shouldn’t work for me, but it does.
13. Fomowa Paris Pannaco Tahaa [#AD]
Sarah Burri
Fomowa is a new endeavour from the people behind Lorga, one of my favorite collections. And Sarah Burri made my favorite Lorga releases, especially Ambre Platine. Fomowa seems to be a more trendy and so far, gourmand-leaning brand. While I did not care for the Red Keela Split release, I was pleasantly surprised by Pannaco Tahaa. Mango and creamy vanilla could go generic, but they did not choose to go the simple route here. The mango is green, sharp even and there are slight floral tinges, which is in stark contrast with the heavy sweetness. I was afraid this would be from the school of Erba Pura or a full-on sweet mango of which we’ve seen several in the past two years, but it’s in a class of its own.
You can win this fragrance below!
12. Ormonde Jayne Vanille des Afriques Intensivo
I’ve been a fan of the styling and quality that Ormonde Jayne brings to the table. Vanilla is not the first thing you think of, when you think of Ormonde Jayne. But while this year was filled with brands jumping on the gourmand and vanilla hype, Vanille Des Afriques doesn’t feel like ‘one of those’. Not a full-on, edible gourmand, but a rather mature, subtle one. It’s a fragrance that balance a powdery start with a growing resinous texture. Soft in how it wears (I think also in performance), making for a cozy, yet classy wear worthy of the Ormonde Jayne branding.
11. Essential Parfums Bois Imperial Extrait
Quentin Bisch
On the upside, Bois Imperal Extrait feels like a proper flanker. It takes the recognizable Bois Imperial DNA, elevates the spices, the woods and the leather. At times reminding me of BDK Gris Charnel or even Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois; I kept smelling a hint of plum or fig in Bois Imperial Extrait and multiple people have co-signed that after my review. It’s clearly better than Bois Imperial for my taste, which is a rarity with these flankers. The downside? This has one of the biggest price hikes for a flanker ever. Still, given its absolute price (& 30ml size), it’s a reasonable purchase when comparing it to many others on this list.
10. New Notes Akigala Mandarino [#AD]
Scent-wise this just had to make my top 10 this year; arguably higher up in this top 10. Morally, I feel a bit conflicted about putting it that high on the list. Akigala Mandarino is easily one of my favorite scents to have come out this year, but it’s instantly reminiscent to one of my all time favorites, Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede. It’s not identical mind you, with the New Notes having much more of a fruity opening and a bit less of an eccentric wear overall. It’s like a Summer or light flanker to Ganymede, making it even more versatile and easier going. But realistically, it doesn’t score points for originality. That being said, I’m happy to have it alongside Ganymede in my collection and it’s been getting its wears in, so I don’t want to be a hypocrite either; this is a great fragrance, with good performance and decent pricing. It doesn’t have 100% of the magic of Ganymede for me personally, but I think that for the average consumer, Akigala Mandarino would actually be the preferred way to go.
09. Atelier Des Ors Cocoa Kimiya
Marie Salamagne
Whereas Kawa Karda wasn’t fully my jam, Cocoa Kimiya is exactly the type of mature, not overly sweet, coffee scent that I can appreciate. A step darker and more singular than Akro Awake, which is one of my favorite coffee fragrances ever. Cocoa Kimiya could’ve potentially been even higher up on this list, but part of the reason I felt good leaving it here, is that my #4 this years feels like a similar, but even nicer fragrance in my opinion. Not to take anything away from Cocoa Kimiya, which could’ve easily been underwhelming given it’s high price, but for me, it lived up to, or exceeded my expectations.
08. Diptyque Lunamaris
Fabrice Pellegrin
Generally, this new Diptyque line was very well constructed in my opinion. And spoiler: Lunamaris isn’t the highest entry from it on this year’s list. This was quite a fun and vibrant fragrance to me, with spices, incense, but also some florals (rose isn’t listed as a note, but felt prominent to my nose). I was taken to Majda Bekkali’s Mon Nom Est Rouge (and a lesser extent to Amouage Epic Woman/Epic 56), which is one of my favorite DNA’s. Here, it’s even warmer & spicier, with a more pronounced sweet incense. It’s not likely that I’ll buy it, given that I have Epic 56 and I would probably pick the Majda Bekkali over Lunamaris as a sweeter take, but it’s still an absolutely stellar release.
07. Roja Parfums Lost In Paris
Roja Dove
Where does one rank a €1200 fragrance? I try not to think about it too much, as there clearly is a market for it; I’m just not in that market. I did have the pleasure of wearing Lost In Paris. If this was a list of ‘do I think this fragrance is worth its asking price’, Lost In Paris wouldn’t make the cut, but looking at its own merit, there is something really special about this fragrance. And that special is called butter. I was expecting baked goods, pastry, maybe something more spicy, along the lines of Sweetie Aoud, but instead, you get pure, straight up butter in Lost In Paris. In an otherwise, not all that remarkable scent profile, which is subtle, with a lot of citrus and soft textures. It reminded me of a hand soap, before growing a bit sweeter and spicier. That butter accord however, stuck with me. I’m not even sure if I would want to wear this fragrance that much, hence I passed on the opportunity to buy it, even at a wildly lower asking price, but I would lie if I said that I don’t regret that at times. There’s something about Lost In Paris that keeps it on my mind, which is an admirable trait, so my thoughts on it have grown more favorable after the fact. Aside from Taif Aoud, this is probably my favorite more recent Roja Parfums release.
06. Annindriya Orris Soyeux
Francesca Bianchi
Annindriya earns the highest entry for a new brand on the list. Started in 2024 by Tanja of the PerfumeLounge, one of the better niche stores in my country. Francesca Bianchi released an exclusive for the store in 2019 called Cuir Soyeux, which forms the base for Orris Soyeux. And you still clearly get the leather (cuir) vibe in this, perhaps more suede, doused in Bianchi’s signature thick, omnipresent orris butter. Add some (cola-esque) spices and it strikes a really nice balance. I think this is less sweet and more refined than her Sticky Fingers or Tyger Tyger, but also more cozy than fragrances like Under My Skin, The Black Knight or The Dark Side. It may be my favorite balance Bianchi has struck so far and it was definitely my favorite from the Annindriya launches.
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05. Siam1928 Mekha Aranya
Nutt Wesshasartar
Siam1928 was one of my favorite discoveries this year, with Mekha Aranya being the one that stood out to me most, but several others were worth exploring. Frankly, I should really revisit this fragrance. As I was compiling this list, I knew I wanted to put Mekha Aranya high in the ranking and shine a light on this brand, but I couldn’t grasp the actual scent of the fragrance well-enough anymore to put it in my top 3 with confidence. Given that its an Asian brand, Siam1928 has a lot of fragrances that wear like traditional French perfumery, as well as a more quirky line (including Yodbeer). Mekha Aranya’s opening felt most Eastern-inspired from that ones that I’ve tried, with a fruity leather reminding me of Widian Al Wasl / Gold I. Osmanthus is the key note here. However, it quickly transforms into something more delicate and more manageable. More in tune with many of the more traditional scents in the range, with a floral side in the air and the leather being more noticeable up close. What stands out is the addition of a subtle honeyed sweetness. Just a drop of honey and it makes all the difference, without getting actually sweet and tarnishing the floral vibe. I need to revisit this and if you’re reading this, you probably need to explore Siam1928 one day as well.
04. Diptyque Bois Corse
Nathalie Gracia-Cetto & Olivier Pescheux
Bois Corse was my favorite of the Les Essences by Diptyque and it’s one of the few times that I really connected with Diptyque. It’s a brand that I’ve always appreciated, but somehow, I never bought one of their fragrances. Bois Corse smells like a dark, bitter, nutty chocolate that turns into coffee and woods. Ultimately, it feels like sweet, dark woods. This is not a scent with a lot of progression; it doesn’t open bright and doesn’t grow much sweeter along the wear. Something akin to saffron creeps up a bit as it dries on my skin. It’s mature, it’s refined. I think it’s more classy of a fragrance than anything that I would put in the same category (Akro Awake, Kerosene Follow, Teo Cabanel Oh La La, Van Cleef & Arpels Bois Dore etc.). Impressively. for such a focused, rather dark fragrance, it doesn’t wear heavy. Semi-powdery and while a nudge away from their norm, aesthetically, still fitting for Diptyque. There is something in the way this wears one me that made it an easy pick for a high entry as one of the best releases this year.
03. Maison Crivelli Tubereuse Astrale
Quentin Bisch
A divisive release, as Bisch has been known for in recent years. And what is niche, if not divisive? This is about as Bisch as Bisch gets, following right in the foot steps of my favorites of his, Ganymede and Experimentum Crucis. Tuberose is a tricky note and Tubereuse Astrale does it in a fashion that smells like no tuberose that I’ve tried before. Contemporary, harsh, spicy (I get a healthy dose cumin in this), fairly strong leather, but then… surprisingly sweet and creamy. It has the texture of a creamy, fleshy, thick tuberose, without the indolic scent. Instead, a syrupy vanilla starts to take over the scent profile and it reminds me mostly of vanillic gardenia fragrances at that point. Tubereuse Astrale has a bit of everything, making for an eccentric, exciting wear, albeit not the most comforting because of it. I bought a travel-size and for now, I’m good with that, as this is not a fragrance that I have to wear often. Yet, it’s a fragrance that embodies the best of contemporary perfumery to me. It’s unique (especially ommitting Bisch’ own work) and quite abstract. It’s my favorite Maison Crivelli release and to me, this is what a sweeter entry in the Marc-Antoine Barrois collection should smell like. Understandably, a love-it-or-hate-it type of fragrance and I fall in the ‘love it’ camp for this entire direction by Bisch, as is pretty clear by both 2023 and 2024 awards’ lists.
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02. Amouage Lustre
Julien Rasquinet & Paul Guerlain
I was happy to review The Essences collection samples in time, while I started compiling this list. There may be some recency bias here, but Lustre was the one from the collection that instantly felt like it was made for me. The popular Outlands, as shown lower ranked in this list, was okay to me, but didn’t fully live up to the hype. Lustre on the other hand, plays right into my hand with its earthy, thick iris. Not unlike #7 Annindriya Orris Soyeux, as this reminds me of Bianchi’s orris, but without the leathery tinge and growing sweeter. If Lustre didn’t grow as sweet as it does, with its ambery, labdanum drydown that reminded me a bit of a sweeter Chanel Le Lion or even Guerlain Shalimar, I think this could’ve been my favorite release of the year. The opening hours and especially the texture of this fragrance were everything that I could hope for it to be. Mushy, pulpy woods and iris. The scent of Lustre perfectly mirrors the barrel-aged, wood chips-infused process that I picture for the Essences and it makes me feel like I’m getting an elevated product, worthy of its artisinal claims and price point, more than with the other two from this collection. Of course, as an avid iris lover, I’m biased, hence this list is my opinion and not a scientific process, but Lustre instantly made its way to be one of my favorite Amouage releases. I may not always be in tune with the direction the brand has taken in recent years, but every year, they manage to have at least 1 or 2 releases that prove me wrong. Last year, it was Jubilation 40 especially and this year, it’s Lustre.
01. Bon Parfumeur 502 – Iris Cartagena [#AD]
Clement Marx
My #1 pick for 2024. This may ruffle some feathers and I’m not going to pretend like I don’t understand why. In 2024, Bon Parfumeur flooded the Instagram space (where I was mostly active as a reviewer) with large amounts of 502 – Iris Cartagena being sent out to influencers, yours truly included. This level of over-saturation understandably rubs some people the wrong way and it can be a breeding ground for skepticism. Frankly, I’m a bit surprised about the (overwhelming positive) reception the fragrance has received. Mainly because a lot of the talk surrounding Iris Cartagena is about its gourmand facets. I think that if you go into this fragrance expecting an inviting, gourmand fragrance, you could be in for a surprise. The namesake iris is very prominent, both in a carrot way and a nutty, earthy way. Generally, this fragrance smells more like a forest, with some charred woods and a clear carrot-nutty mix, than a full-on gourmand. Throughout there are the slightest green, tree sappy hints as well. Can I picture ground coffee and cocoa powder? Absolutely. From start to finish I’m reminded of bitter, chalky, chocolate powder. It gets sweet, almost edible, but… the forest is never far behind. 502 – Iris Cartagena is an eventful wear, as is has some nice transitions, opening brighter than the somewhat similar #4 on this list, Diptyque Bois Corse. The opening has a tart quality, like a more chocolate-heavy Les Abstraits Belle Ame, which was one of my favorite discoveries of last year. The drydown reminds me most of dry, chocolate-heavy patchouli like a D:SOL MMXVI Terram, another mainstay in my collection. I can’t overstate how dry it gets. This is an outspoken, in your face fragrance and if you don’t like dark carroty iris, there will likely remain a side to 502 – Iris Cartagena that you won’t get fully comfortable with, as I’d strongly argue that this never turns into an actual gourmand. To me, this is a huge step up from the other Bon Parfumeur fragrances that I’ve tried so far. A big shout-out is in order to Clement Marx, an upcoming perfumer, with only a few public releases under his name (this being the first that I’ve tried). If this is an indication, I think we’re going to see a lot more of him in years to come.
PRIZES
#3 WINNER
Superfumista INFRA ROSE (30ml)
Superfumista LEMON DELIGHT (30ml)
#2 WINNER
Annindriya ORRIS SOYEUX (50ml)
Angelos Creations Olfactives SALON DT (30ml)
#1 WINNER
Creed JASMIN IMPERATRICE EUGENIE (75ml)
Bon Parfumeur 502 – IRIS CARTAGENA (100ml)
Thomas de Monaco SOL SALGADO (50ml)
Fomowa PANNACO TAHAA (100ml)
Wolf Brothers GOAT (50ml)
Maison Crivelli TUBEREUSE ASTRALE (5ml)
Kayali YUM BOUGIE MARSHMALLOW (10ml)