LES ABSTRAITS
BELLE AME
2022
PERFUMER
Antoine Lie
Orris
Iris
ginger
Cacao
Cardamom
frankincense
Tonka Bean
Sandalwood
musk
Les Abstraits had a great start with La Douleur Exquise; a rose-not oud with leather touches. There are few things that I love more than rose, but iris is one of them, so Belle Ame was a no-brainer and it was one of the few blind-buys for me at this stage in my ‘collecting’.
Belle Ame manages to distinguish itself in a field of iris scents. The chocolate is prominent for a literal minute to my nose, before getting subtle in the background; this is not a gourmand. The note that pierces through in the opening much longer is ginger, playing the part often played by bergamot or pear in iris fragrances. Here adding a sharper, zesty, almost pickled quality that I get close to the skin, but less in the air. In the drydown its brightening job is taken over by the carrot-y nature of the iris.
The iris is earthy and vegetal; not as soft, floral and traditionally feminine leaning as you might expect from Eugen’s Chanel-influenced pastel pallete, but closer to the raw ingredient. Belle Ame has been compared to Dior Homme as masculine-leaning iris, but that’s about the full extent of the resemblance. For the iris, the closest reference that comes to mind to me is probably Amouage Orris Wakan.
However, my biggest takeaway is more unique. I get a subtle petrichor (rain on soil) and metallic scent in Belle Ame that sets it apart; it reminds me a bit of peanut (shells). Bitter and palpable. Something similar I’ve only recently encountered (briefly) in Areej Le Dore’s Le Mitti.
Some wafts it goes into a dry suede. There’s a surprisingly solid longevity for this scent profile, with a sweeter late drydown, but not just a generic vanilla.
Belle Ame was a love at first sniff, without necessarily loving the first sniff. Totally captivated by intrigue; arguably a bigger compliment in this stage of my fragrance journey. It takes away some comfort that I get from iris, but replaces it with a more engaged wear. Almost like a dialogue, trying to make all the elements land (I have a similar experience with Ganymede).
Belle Ame is a real perfume lovers’ perfume. Not daring, less so than La Douleur Exquise or Des Cendres I find, but I’d argue no more mass appealing. Perhaps the least common of the three. This averted, but exceeded my expectations and has been one of my favorites since.
