WOLF BROTHERS
BEAR

2020

PERFUMER
Laure Santantoni

cinnamon
ginger
pine
fir

iris
honey
propolis

cedarwood
cistus
tree bark
vanilla
labdanum

‘The top notes are inspired by the forest with resinous notes of pine and fir. The dark bear’s fur is represented by ambery notes of cistus and labdanum. The powerful notes of cinnamon and ginger make up a respect and fear animal of the forest. While honey and vanilla notes add smoothness to the composition.’ – Wolf Brothers

My first time trying Wolf Brothers was with Bear and Goat; while I think I found Goat more intriguing and unique, Wolf was pretty great and probably one I’d be more inclined to wear. You have to be in the mood for it though.

Meaning, that this is definitely still an acquired taste. I don’t get much of the brighter top notes, but straight away, Bear dives into a sweet, smoky leathery scent. With an emphasis on smoky.

Style-wise, this reminds me a lot of some of Prin’s work, most notably Strangers Parfumerie Burning Ben. It has that resinous, slightly dirty sweetness that you also get in the opening of Les Indemodables Vanille Havane, but in the case of Bear, it remains a lot smokier after the opening for some hours.

It also goes in a leathery direction a tiny bit, but more so, in a spicy direction. Smoky, woody, spicy, a bit earthy, but all with a sweet edge. And in the drydown a mix of labdanum, iris and what to my nose smells like a woody, slightly sugary, sandalwood substitute. Not as outlandish as I was even reminded of fragrances such as Atelier Des Ors Iris Fauve at times.

While the opening has quite some skankiness, it becomes subtler eventually. Mind you, it keeps a bit of a daring edge throughout, but Bear shouldn’t pose a challenge to anyone who’s used to smoky fragrances. I was quite impressed with it, especially given its price point.