STORA SKUGGAN
Azalai

2020

PERFUMER
Tomas Hempel

BLOOD ORANGE
MINT

SAFFRON
DRIED FRUITS

VELVIONE
AMBER
INCENSE
GUM ACACIA

‘The scent is as an olfactory impression of gold, with radiant warmth from saffron and blood orange, and the glossy, luxurious musk velvione (a material that has been described as pressing the nose to the skin of a newborn’s scalp). Gum acacia, a syrup made from acacia sap, provides sugary sweetness balanced by salty amber and incense. A touch of mint tea and dried fruit pays homage to the Tuareg caravan riders.’ – Stora Skuggan

What an interesting scent this is. It shouldn’t be a surprise, given the brand’s description, but it does indeed mix salty and sweet, and fruity in an intriguing way. I wanted to love it and it got close, but for me, Azalai gets too sugary to be a full love, albeit that there are elements that are magnificent here.

In concept, its sweetness works well with the citrussy and minty opening, but it leaves little room along its path from there. The textures here are absolutely my favorite aspect; super resinous, soft, gummy. This is up there with the most smooth resinous scents on the market.

The scent is abstract to my nose, but you do get orange, you get creamy almost sun-tan lotion vibes, slight earthiness, and then that sugary, almost cloying blanket on top of it. I find it hard to describe or compare, which is always a good thing, but I wish it kept the sweetness down a notch or two, or more.

Either way, a stand-out release that is worth exploring, although I think it will be a divisive one.