MARIEJEANNE
Au Pied du Rosier
2024
PERFUMER
Karine Vinchon-Spehner
mandarin
saffron
rose centifolia
new sneakers
oud
sandalwood
labdanum
‘Au Pied du Rosier evokes the joy of acquiring a long-desired pair of sneakers. This fragrance presents a powerful olfactory universe, revolving around an accord of new sneakers associated with Centifolia rose. Vivid notes of mandarin and saffron contrast with Oud wood in the base, creating a profoundly modern base. Its diffusion and long-lasting hold on the skin ensure an olfactory experience that lasts all day long.’ – Marie Jeanne
This is one of the best rose fragrances I’ve come across in a while. Generally, Mariejeanne has high quality products and in few places that quality is as noticeable and welcome as in floral perfumes. I really liked their Iris Pallida, but to my surprise, this rosey Au Pied Du Rosier steals the show.
It’s a balance of the flower that works perfectly for my taste. The rose itself is lush, in-your-face, quite fresh, pink or light reds in my mind, with minor hints of green hues. Perhaps most importantly there’s a lot of citrus for the opening; in a citronellol type of way, which gives a zesty edge to the rose. That has been one of my favorite facets in perfumery in recent years (I find this combination for example in favorites of mine like Jazeel Ghala or Frederic Malle Une Rose/Rose Tonnerre). But make no mistake; this is a lighter and brighter fragrance than those.
Initially, I do find that this MarieJeanne has quite a lot of depth behind it. Not nearly as bold or earthy or heavy as the Malle or Jazeel referenced above, but it has a good backbone; at times reminding me a little bit of Roja Parfums Taif Aoud, with the saffron-leathery touch. Never going full leather. Just adding a subtle piercing tinge to otherwise cozy flower petals, while the rose itself takes on a more traditional, feminine leaning direction.
The more time passes, the more it loses that ‘edge’ and Au Pied Du Rosier grows sweeter. Still keeping that vibrant, bright rose. I was expecting the sweetness to feel more ambery and woody, given the notes, but I find a lot of freshness and levity remains throughout; reminding me of the clean linen/white musky sweet rose of another one of my favorite rose discoveries from the year prior; Superfumista Infra Rose. There is some woodiness, but (luckily) at no point does it take over or makes this comforting (and in my opinion Spring/Summer appropriate) composition harsher than it needs to be.
Both the saffron-tinged opening and the more archetypal rose-centric drydown that follows are excellent and as a whole, Au Pied Du Rosier join the ranks of favorite discoveries in 2025.