Please note that this is not a definitive account by any means and it may contain errors. More importantly, it’s based solely on the select resources that I’ve found, which means mostly targeting brands that advertised in certain magazines. Sharing these findings may shed a light on the subject however, and I highly encourage anyone with additional information or corrections to share their knowledge in the comments below. Enjoy!
Prologue
Yes, this article is about the history of the ‘Eau de Parfum’ concentration specifically. Should this article have been written by someone who was around back then? Yes. Yet, here I am.
It was while adding fragrances to the database that I first became aware of how modern the use of the term ‘Eau de Parfum’ is. In talking to others, I’ve noticed that people who weren’t around for most of the latter century were surprised at how relatively new the term is, especially given how popular it is today.
Until after World War II, fragrances were commonly released as an ‘Eau de Cologne’ and/or ‘Eau de Toilette’ and a ‘Parfum’ (or ‘Extract’, later ‘Extrait’). Many of the most popular brands started using the EDP name and concentration much later.
For example, Chanel seems to start during the 1970’s and Guerlain didn’t adopt the naming until c.1990. Older popular fragrances that stood the test of time, often have an EDP version, but those are frequently labeled incorrectly with the original release year. It’s hard to trace the introduction of these EDPs. For example, Nina Ricci’s L’Air Du Temps is first mentioned in 1946 (not 1948, as the internet would have you think), but the first appearance of the EDP that I found is in the 1970’s. The 1943 Rochas Femme had an EDP that had to be released after 1970 as well. Meanwhile, Jean Patou’s Joy from c.1930, seemingly didn’t see an EDP variant until 1998.
As you’ll read in this article, my findings show that EDPs were starting to be marketed around 1940 (my guesstimate says, presumably a few years earlier at the most), with only a few notable perfumes being advertised pre-1950 in the sources that I’ve consulted. It wasn’t a common concentration or name until well after that period.
Take a look at this excerpt from Cosmetics, science and technology, by Edward Sagarin on the use of the Eau De Parfum branding, from 1957:
‘The most popular fragrance products on the market are in the form of alcoholic solutions. Such solutions are handled under different designations, such as perfume, toilet water or eau de toilette, cologne or eau de cologne; less frequently one encounters a variety of other fanciful names, such as eau de parfum, essence, fragrant water, etc.’
So when did Eau de Parfum become a thing? Let’s dive deeper.
Terminology
The first reference to the actual words ‘Eau de Parfum’ that I’ve been able to find are in a translation of works by Greek poet Anacreon (it could potentially be an original work of another Greek poet, Sappho, instead). Translated to French by Remy Belleau in 1558 in Les odes d’Anacréon : traduites de grec en Francois. The translated poem is called ‘De La Blessure D’Amoure’ (‘On The Wound Of Love). I can’t find an English translation of it, so this is the best that I could make of it:
‘…Who fashioned a crown
Of lilies, roses and carnations,
And a hundred vermilion buttons,
To grow in honored leaf (?)
The honor of making gold,
And enamel it with a hundred colors,
Finding it around the flowers.
After watering it well,
Beautiful (well-posed) eau de parfum
On his head, around the hat.’
Here, as in multiple other of the oldest references, it’s ‘D’Eau de Parfum’ and it’s not in reference to a specific concentration of a fragrance, rather just a reference to perfumed water.
Other early references
In a poem by Honorat de Bueil (Dernières oeuvres et poésies chrestiennes de messire, published in 1660), translated as: ‘She bathes in eau de parfum’.
‘Believing that it was some eau de parfum, which made him bald the rest of his days.’ – (Jean) Denis de Sallo (Journal des Sçavans, 1736) (translated)
The oldest available reference to ‘Eau de Parfum’ with a different meaning I found is in The Pharmaceutisch-technisches Manuale vol. 2 by Buchholz & Diebel (1879). It lists a formula for an Eau de Parfum, but this time, the reference is to the name of a perfume, rather than a concentration.
First Eau de Parfums
When searching for actual Eau de Parfum concentration fragrance releases (hereafter called EDP), I start seeing references around 1941. It’s good to note that in none of these instances, the EDP concentration or naming is being remarked on in any particular manner. Hinting that it was likely already used before, so I assume that most of the EDPs referenced, could’ve been released in years prior to what I’ve been able to verify. There were likely more fragrances available as EDP simultaneously from some of the houses that I name as well.
Ecarlate de Suzy
The first proof of an EDP that I could find is Ecarlate (de Suzy). It was released under the Suzy Perfumes/Les Parfums de Suzy label by Madame Suzy Michaud and produced by S.P.F. America. Supposedly released in 1939, but the first mention of the EDP variant that I can verify dates back to a listing in The American Perfumer And Essential Oil Review (August 1941).
At latest in November 1942 (per Drug And Cosmetic Industry), Suzy had released Bandbox as an EDP and in the time between Golden Laughter was already released, followed by Madrigal in 1944.
Helena Rubenstein / Gourielli
One of the earliest and definitely the overall most active name in my search efforts as far as EDP releases in this time period is Helena Rubinstein.
Under her name brand, there are EDPs at least as early as 1944 for Heaven Sent in United Palestine Appeal (1944). Her most popular release seems to be Command Performance, for example in Posttown Mercury (27 November, 1947) Instead, I’ll show you this epic Christmas ad below per Modern Packaging (September, 1949),
However, it’s as early as 1941-1942 that EDPs from her brand Gourielli were marketed. Gourielli was a subsidiary brand from Helena Rubinstein. She married a prince named Gourielli in 1938 and took on the nickname Princess Gourielli. She released the Prince & Princess Gourielli lines in 1941. There’s an advertisement from the Los Angeles Times (April 2, 1942), the one pictured below from The Washington Post (April 3, 1942), or in House & Garden (May, 1942). Other EDP releases like Five O’Clock, Something Blue and Flower Of The Month (12 fragrances to represent 12 birth-months as gift for Mothers) all followed before 1950.
PRINCE OBOLENSKI
(Le Parfum) Credo by Prince Obolenski was introduced, also as EDP, in Drug And Cosmetic Industry vol .51 (December, 1942).
NADAIR PARFUMS
I’ve had a hard time looking up trademark registrations for ‘Eau de Parfum’, but I did find one around this time period. The words, in combination with other indicators, were successfully registered by Nadair Parfums per the Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office (1944). It claims the use since November 1943. Their sole perfume I see advertised (frequently for many years) is Shameless.
D’ESTREE
I wanted to mention this one, just because it highlights the, then new and unconventional, use of glass aerosol spray bottles. This is a report from The American Perfumer And Essential Oil Review (September 1944). For those interested, it goes into great detail about this new atomizer method (on p. 185-186). I’ve seen Rochas Femme Cologne being credited with revolutionizing this atomizer style c.1955, which is incorrect by a good decade’s worth.
Others before 1950
Some notably early EDPs from other brands that I’ve come across, with the earliest years that I’ve been able to verify:
Toujenais Congo, Bracelet & Andalosia (1944)
Anjou Devastating (1946). Released in 1943, but the EDP was advertised as new in multiple sources in 1946. Also Apropos (1949).
Nettie Rosenstein Odalisque (1946)
Dorothy Gray Savoir Faire (1947). Supposedly released in 1936, but I don’t see a any reference to the perfume until 1947, where it’s labeled as a ‘new fragrance’. The name was around for cosmetics prior.
Farel Destin Strange Music Scent (1948). Released in 1945, but the initial ads don’t list an EDP.
Paul Duval Ballet Russe (1948).
Germain Nostalgia (1949). Released in 1941, but the EDP followed later. I assume other Germain releases at the time did as well.
Prince Matchabelli Duchess Of York (1949)
Corday Zigane (1950). A popular EDT from 1937, but I believe the EDP was introduced c. 1950. Also Toujours Toi (1950).
Kerkoff Djer-Kiss (1950). This could’ve been earlier, although there’s no mention of an EDP yet on a 1946 ad poster.
Popular Adoptation
When looking for perhaps more familiar name brands anno 2023, the following brands adopted the EDP branding:
Revlon Fire And Ice (1954), Cactus (1955), Intimate (1955).
Schiaparelli Shocking, Sleeping, Succes Fou (1956). Released earlier, but at least in early to mid 1940’s ads, there’s no mention of EDPs and those were advertised often since 1956.
Ciro Oh La La, Danger, Reflexions, New Horizons (1959).
Estee Lauder Youth Dew (1959). The first bigger name brand that more people will recognize today that came up in my searches was Estee Lauder. The popular Youth Dew was released in 1953. I see many listings for an EDP starting from 1959.
