Please note that this is not a definitive account by any means and it may contain errors. More importantly, it’s based solely on the select resources that I’ve found, which means mostly targeting brands that advertised in certain magazines. Sharing these findings may shed a light on the subject however, and I highly encourage anyone with additional information or corrections to share their knowledge in the comments below. Enjoy!
Prologue
Yes, this article is about the history of the ‘Eau de Parfum’ concentration specifically. Should this article have been written by someone who was around back then? Yes. Yet, here I am.
It was while adding fragrances to the database that I first became aware of how modern the use of the term ‘Eau de Parfum’ is. In talking to others, I’ve noticed that people who weren’t around for most of the latter century were surprised at how relatively new the term is, especially given how popular it is today.
Until after World War II, fragrances were commonly released as an ‘Eau de Cologne’ and/or ‘Eau de Toilette’ and a ‘Parfum’ (or ‘Extract’, later ‘Extrait’). Many of the most popular brands started using the EDP name and concentration much later.
For example, Chanel seems to start during the 1970’s and Guerlain didn’t adopt the naming until c.1990. Older popular fragrances that stood the test of time, often have an EDP version, but those are frequently labeled incorrectly with the original release year. It’s hard to trace the introduction of these EDPs. For example, Nina Ricci’s L’Air Du Temps is first mentioned in 1946 (not 1948, as the internet would have you think), but the first appearance of the EDP that I found is in the 1970’s. The 1943 Rochas Femme had an EDP that had to be released after 1970 as well. Meanwhile, Jean Patou’s Joy from c.1930, seemingly didn’t see an EDP variant until 1998.
As you’ll read in this article, my findings show that EDPs were starting to be marketed around 1940 (my guesstimate says, presumably a few years earlier at the most), with only a few notable perfumes being advertised pre-1950 in the sources that I’ve consulted. It wasn’t a common concentration or name until well after that period.
Take a look at this excerpt from Cosmetics, science and technology, by Edward Sagarin on the use of the Eau De Parfum branding, from 1957:
‘The most popular fragrance products on the market are in the form of alcoholic solutions. Such solutions are handled under different designations, such as perfume, toilet water or eau de toilette, cologne or eau de cologne; less frequently one encounters a variety of other fanciful names, such as eau de parfum, essence, fragrant water, etc.’
So when did Eau de Parfum become a thing? Let’s dive deeper.
Terminology
The first reference to the actual words ‘Eau de Parfum’ that I’ve been able to find are in a translation of works by Greek poet Anacreon (it could potentially be an original work of another Greek poet, Sappho, instead). Translated to French by Remy Belleau in 1558 in Les odes d’Anacréon : traduites de grec en Francois. The translated poem is called ‘De La Blessure D’Amoure’ (‘On The Wound Of Love). I can’t find an English translation of it, so this is the best that I could make of it:
‘…Who fashioned a crown
Of lilies, roses and carnations,
And a hundred vermilion buttons,
To grow in honored leaf (?)
The honor of making gold,
And enamel it with a hundred colors,
Finding it around the flowers.
After watering it well,
Beautiful (well-posed) eau de parfum
On his head, around the hat.’
Here, as in multiple other of the oldest references, it’s ‘D’Eau de Parfum’ and it’s not in reference to a specific concentration of a fragrance, rather just a reference to perfumed water.
Other early references
In a poem by Honorat de Bueil (Dernières oeuvres et poésies chrestiennes de messire, published in 1660), translated as: ‘She bathes in eau de parfum’.
‘Believing that it was some eau de parfum, which made him bald the rest of his days.’ – (Jean) Denis de Sallo (Journal des Sçavans, 1736) (translated)
The oldest available reference to ‘Eau de Parfum’ with a different meaning I found is in The Pharmaceutisch-technisches Manuale vol. 2 by Buchholz & Diebel (1879). It lists a formula for an Eau de Parfum, but this time, the reference is to the name of a perfume, rather than a concentration.
First Eau de Parfums
When searching for actual Eau de Parfum concentration fragrance releases (hereafter called EDP), I start seeing references around 1941. It’s good to note that in none of these instances, the EDP concentration or naming is being remarked on in any particular manner. Hinting that it was likely already used before, so I assume that most of the EDPs referenced, could’ve been released in years prior to what I’ve been able to verify. There were likely more fragrances available as EDP simultaneously from some of the houses that I name as well.
Ecarlate de Suzy
The first proof of an EDP that I could find is Ecarlate (de Suzy). It was released under the Suzy Perfumes/Les Parfums de Suzy label by Madame Suzy Michaud and produced by S.P.F. America. Supposedly released in 1939, but the first mention of the EDP variant that I can verify dates back to a listing in The American Perfumer And Essential Oil Review (August 1941).
At latest in November 1942 (per Drug And Cosmetic Industry), Suzy had released Bandbox as an EDP and in the time between Golden Laughter was already released, followed by Madrigal in 1944.
Helena Rubenstein / Gourielli
One of the earliest and definitely the overall most active name in my search efforts as far as EDP releases in this time period is Helena Rubinstein.
Under her name brand, there are EDPs at least as early as 1944 for Heaven Sent in United Palestine Appeal (1944). Her most popular release seems to be Command Performance, for example in Posttown Mercury (27 November, 1947) Instead, I’ll show you this epic Christmas ad below per Modern Packaging (September, 1949),
However, it’s as early as 1941-1942 that EDPs from her brand Gourielli were marketed. Gourielli was a subsidiary brand from Helena Rubinstein. She married a prince named Gourielli in 1938 and took on the nickname Princess Gourielli. She released the Prince & Princess Gourielli lines in 1941. There’s an advertisement from the Los Angeles Times (April 2, 1942), the one pictured below from The Washington Post (April 3, 1942), or in House & Garden (May, 1942). Other EDP releases like Five O’Clock, Something Blue and Flower Of The Month (12 fragrances to represent 12 birth-months as gift for Mothers) all followed before 1950.
PRINCE OBOLENSKI
(Le Parfum) Credo by Prince Obolenski was introduced, also as EDP, in Drug And Cosmetic Industry vol .51 (December, 1942).
NADAIR PARFUMS
I’ve had a hard time looking up trademark registrations for ‘Eau de Parfum’, but I did find one around this time period. The words, in combination with other indicators, were successfully registered by Nadair Parfums per the Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office (1944). It claims the use since November 1943. Their sole perfume I see advertised (frequently for many years) is Shameless.
D’ESTREE
I wanted to mention this one, just because it highlights the, then new and unconventional, use of glass aerosol spray bottles. This is a report from The American Perfumer And Essential Oil Review (September 1944). For those interested, it goes into great detail about this new atomizer method (on p. 185-186). I’ve seen Rochas Femme Cologne being credited with revolutionizing this atomizer style c.1955, which is incorrect by a good decade’s worth.
Others before 1950
Some notably early EDPs from other brands that I’ve come across, with the earliest years that I’ve been able to verify:
Toujenais Congo, Bracelet & Andalosia (1944)
Anjou Devastating (1946). Released in 1943, but the EDP was advertised as new in multiple sources in 1946. Also Apropos (1949).
Nettie Rosenstein Odalisque (1946)
Dorothy Gray Savoir Faire (1947). Supposedly released in 1936, but I don’t see a any reference to the perfume until 1947, where it’s labeled as a ‘new fragrance’. The name was around for cosmetics prior.
Farel Destin Strange Music Scent (1948). Released in 1945, but the initial ads don’t list an EDP.
Paul Duval Ballet Russe (1948).
Germain Nostalgia (1949). Released in 1941, but the EDP followed later. I assume other Germain releases at the time did as well.
Prince Matchabelli Duchess Of York (1949)
Corday Zigane (1950). A popular EDT from 1937, but I believe the EDP was introduced c. 1950. Also Toujours Toi (1950).
Kerkoff Djer-Kiss (1950). This could’ve been earlier, although there’s no mention of an EDP yet on a 1946 ad poster.
Popular Adoptation
When looking for perhaps more familiar name brands anno 2023, the following brands adopted the EDP branding:
Revlon Fire And Ice (1954), Cactus (1955), Intimate (1955).
Schiaparelli Shocking, Sleeping, Succes Fou (1956). Released earlier, but at least in early to mid 1940’s ads, there’s no mention of EDPs and those were advertised often since 1956.
Ciro Oh La La, Danger, Reflexions, New Horizons (1959).
Estee Lauder Youth Dew (1959). The first bigger name brand that more people will recognize today that came up in my searches was Estee Lauder. The popular Youth Dew was released in 1953. I see many listings for an EDP starting from 1959.
Coty Emeraude (1965). At least until 1963, Coty released fragrances with the Parfum de Toilette naming. In 1965, advertisements for EDPs start.
Houbigant Chantilly (1971), Quelques Fleurs (1971).
Chanel No. 5 (1973). I was led to believe that the first EDP’s for Chanel came out in the 1980’s, but I stumbled upon this ad, listing a ‘New gold Chanel No. 5 eau de parfum spray’ in 1973.
Nina Ricci L’Air Du Temps & Capricci (1974)
Givenchy Le De, L’Interdit & III (1974).
Addendum
PARFUM DE TOILETTES
For some brands, the Eau de Parfum moniker was predated by the now seldom seen ‘Parfum de Toilette’ (hereafter called PDT). It’s hard to tell when PDT, became of use as a concentration. There are references dating back to the early 1800’s, but they’re used as a general term, not a concentration. Most notable releases in this concentration being the Guerlains in the mid 1980’s. At least for Guerlain, those PDTs were what became their first EDPs c.1990. Rochas Femme was released as a PDT in 1969. Those were not the first Parfum de Toilettes however. See for example the advertisement below for Coty’s L’Aimant in the Gettysburg Times (February, 1963), and Lubin Nuit de Longchamps existed as a PDT as early as 1960.
Epilogue
I’ll leave the trail here… even as late as 1975, there’s not all that many advertisements or listings referring specifically to Eau De Parfums. Which definitely was a surprise to me.
I heard, but have not yet verified, that the popularity of Eau de Parfums rose during the 1970-1980’s, because of a situation with higher taxation for (Extrait de) Parfums. I’m not sure how much truth is in that, but it may be an interesting topic to research for a future article.
I invite anyone with information or fun-facts on this topic to join in the comment section below. And chapeau to anyone who’ve made it till the end of this article.
References
Army Times (November 26, 1955), via https://archive.org/details/sim_army-times_1955-11-26_16_16 Cleopatra's Boudoir - Les Parfums de Suzy https://cleopatrasboudoir.blogspot.com/2018/07/les-parfums-de-suzy.html Commonwealth of Australia Gazette pt. 1 (1948), via https://www.google.nl/books/edition/Commonwealth_Of_Australia_Gazette/-ceS0MUuykEC Cosmetics and skin - Helena Rubinstein (1930-1945) https://cosmeticsandskin.com/companies/helena-rubinstein-1930.php Dernières oeuvres et poésies chrestiennes de messire, Honorat de Bueil (1660), via https://www.google.nl/books/edition/Derni%C3%A8res_oeuvres_et_po%C3%A9sies_chrestien/Z_o9AAAAcAAJ Drug And Cosmetic Industry (August 1946), via https://archive.org/details/sim_global-cosmetic-industry_1946-08_59_2 Drug And Cosmetic Industry (December, 1946), via https://archive.org/details/sim_global-cosmetic-industry_1942-12_51_6 Drug And Cosmetic Industry (February 1946), via https://archive.org/details/sim_global-cosmetic-industry_1946-02_58_2 Drug And Cosmetic Industry (November 1942), via https://archive.org/details/sim_global-cosmetic-industry_1942-11_51_5 Gettysburg Times (February, 1963), via https://archive.org/details/gettysburg-times-1963-02-07 Holiday vol. 27 (May, 1960), via https://archive.org/details/sim_holiday_1960-05_27_5/page/64/mode/2up?q=%22eau+de+parfum%22 House & Garden (May, 1942), via https://archive.org/details/sim_house-garden_1942-05_81_5 Independent Press Telegram (December 25, 1974), via https://archive.org/details/independent-press-telegram-1974-12-25 Independent Press Telegram (May 2, 1954), via https://archive.org/details/independent-press-telegram-1954-05-02 Journal de Pharmacie et des sciences accessoires by Societe de pharmacie de Paris (1815), via https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_y1E3AAAAYAAJ Journal des Sçavans, Jean Denis de Sallo (1736), via https://archive.org/details/leiournaldessa1736salluoft Les odes d'Anacréon : traduites de grec en Francois, Remy Belleau (1606), via https://www.google.nl/books/edition/Les_Oevvres_Poetiqves_De_Remy_Belleav/Td1gAAAAcAAJ Lincoln Star (December 26, 1974), via https://archive.org/details/lincoln-star-1974-12-26 Los Angeles Times (April 2, 1942), via https://archive.org/details/sim_los-angeles-times_los-angeles-times_1942-04-02_61 Los Angeles Times (July 2, 1950), via https://archive.org/details/sim_los-angeles-times_los-angeles-times_1950-07-02_69 Los Angeles Times (May 5, 1950), via https://archive.org/details/sim_los-angeles-times_los-angeles-times_1950-04-05_69 Los Angeles Times (5 December, 1955), via https://archive.org/details/sim_los-angeles-times_los-angeles-times_1955-12-05_75 Los Angeles Times (9 December, 1949), via https://archive.org/details/sim_los-angeles-times_los-angeles-times_1949-12-09_69/page/n7/mode/2up?q=%22eau+de+parfum%22 Modern Packaging (September, 1949), via https://archive.org/details/sim_modern-packaging_1949-09_23_1 Photoplay (July-December 1959), via https://archive.org/details/photoplayjuldec100macf_14 Pomona Progress Bulletin (August 1, 1971), via https://archive.org/details/pomona-progress-bulletin-1971-08-01 Posttown Mercury (November 27, 1947), via https://archive.org/details/pottstown-mercury-1947-11-27 Redbook vol. 108 (November, 1956), via https://archive.org/details/sim_redbook_1956-11_108_1/page San Rafael Daily Independent Journal (December 11, 1973), via https://archive.org/details/san-rafael-daily-independent-journal-1973-12-11 Screenland (February-October, 1949), via https://archive.org/details/screenland532unse St. Louis Post-Dispatch (December 17, 1944), via https://archive.org/details/per_st-louis-post-dispatch_1944-12-17_97_103/ St. Louis Post-Dispatch (May 10, 1948), via https://archive.org/details/per_st-louis-post-dispatch_1948-05-10_100_248 St. Louis Post-Dispatch (May 7, 1950), via https://archive.org/details/per_st-louis-post-dispatch_1950-05-07_102_236 St. Louis Post-Dispatch (September 23, 1943), via https://archive.org/details/per_st-louis-post-dispatch_1943-09-23_96_18 The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review (April, 1944), via https://archive.org/details/sim_cosmetics-toiletries_1944-04_46_4 The American Perfumer And Essential Oil Review (August 1941), via https://archive.org/details/sim_cosmetics-toiletries_1941-08_43_2 The Daily Tar Heel (September 13, 1961), via https://archive.org/details/dailytarheel_sep13_1961_may20_1962 The Chemist And Druggist (1960), via https://archive.org/details/b19974760M4366 The Chemist And Druggist (February 13, 1965), via https://archive.org/details/b19974760M4628 The Chemist And Druggist (September 25, 1954), via https://archive.org/details/b19974760M4064 The Chemist And Druggist (September 30, 1961), via https://archive.org/details/b19974760M4445 The Daily Colonist (November 14, 1965), via https://archive.org/details/dailycolonist19651114 The Pharmaceutisch-technisches Manuale vol. 2, Buchholz & Diebel (1879), via https://archive.org/details/pharmaceutischt00hellgoog The Washington Post (April 3, 1942), via https://archive.org/details/per_washington-post_1942-04-03_24032 The Washington Post (July 22, 1959), via https://archive.org/details/per_washington-post_1959-07-22_229 The Washington Post (11 May, 1950), via https://archive.org/details/per_washington-post_1950-05-11_26992 The Washington Post (September 30, 1951), via https://archive.org/details/per_washington-post_1951-09-30_27499 United Palestine Appeal (1944), via https://google.nl/books/edition/United_Palestine_Appeal/kAi0oFfoNa8C Wikipedia - Anacreon https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anacreon Wikipedia - Denis de Sallo https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denis_de_Sallo Wikipedia - Helena Rubinstein https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helena_Rubinstein Wikipedia - Honorat De Bueil, seigneur de Racan https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honorat_de_Bueil,_seigneur_de_Racan Wikipedia - Remy Belleau https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9my_Belleau Wikipedia - Sappho https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sappho