ARPA
ARCO SPETTRO

2021

PERFUMER
Barnabé Fillion

Juniper
Opoponax

Musk
Frankincense

guaiac wood
Vetiver

Arpa is a newer brand, headed by Barnabe Fillion (perfumer for Aesop and the ultra-limited Le Labo Geranium 30).

Based on a quick sniff in store, I brought home a sample of Arco Spettro as a stand-out on first impression.

This is a dry, but resinous woody scent. A slight sweet babypowder (presumably from opoponax) and sharpness from juniper give Arco Spettro an almost animalic opening minute. This was what grabbed my attention in store, even though it wasn’t per se me ‘favorite’ to wear based on this, it definitely seemed the most interesting.

That daring edge from the opening fades within minutes, revealing a cleaner woody core. It has sort of a green, sterile sandalwood and musk vibe (the sandalwood from a Le Labo Santal 33 or perhaps Guerlain Santal Pao Rosa), although based on the notes it’s a combination of vetiver and guaiac.

Somehow it’s milky and dry at the same time. Green, but barely; bleached and white or blonde woods, not necessarily processed, but without bark. It’s definitely one of my favorite renditions of this style of fragrance, albeit a less interesting or unique one than I’d hoped for based on the initial spray.

There is still a tiny hint of sharp babypowder-ish skank, but instead of daring and animalic, it makes Arco Spettro feel more like being in a forest; like a cold breeze giving a minty touch to a forest setting.