ORMONDE JAYNE
Arabesque
2023
blackcurrant
bergamot
black pepper
saffron
jasmine
rose
musk
moss
patchouli
oud
‘Arabesque EDP joins Ormonde Jayne’s Four Corners of the Earth collection with an olfactory journey through the Middle East, based on flowers, fruits and woods entwined together and found in Islamic art.
Vivacious blackcurrant top notes are skilfully blended with a citrusy aroma of bergamot and a spicy shot of black pepper. The new fragrance’s heart lies in rose and jasmine absolutes, interplaying beautifully, creating a sense of well-being and serenity. A ground-force of base notes, musk, moss, patchouli and Oudh form a classic foundation for the complex scent to build upon its interlacing rhythmic foliage.’
Arabesque is the first Ormonde Jayne to be launched (only) in the 88ml bottles, which will adorn all the Ormonde Jayne’s from 2024.
Arabesque feels like it has 3 sides to me, which work closely together.
First and most prominent to me is the fruitiness. The acidity and sort of deep fruitiness from blackcurrant is very recognizable in its DNA. It’s more mature than for example Atelier Des Ors Pink Me Up or even Carner Marbella, but it has a hint of that, grape-blackcurrant wine like quality.
On the other hand, saffron is more prominent throughout the wear. Saffron, adding a soft leathery touch, more like a plush suede. The combination with the fruitiness instantly took me back to Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, but Arabesque turned out to be more fruity, more floral, much softer.
Which brings us to the florals; my brother described this a rose-oud/rose-patchouli. Maybe because of the strong fruitiness it didn’t instantly register as such to me, but yes, it definitely has a strong core of rose-jasmine with patchouli-oud in the base, so it makes a lot of sense. I’m currently on my second wear and I don’t get too much of the patchouli, the way it often presents itself in rose fragrances. Instead, this reminds me a bit of Amouage Jubilation XXV, which I’ve often described as an opaque, brooding fruit tea, but that has a lot of patchouli in its base as well. That being said, I’d say Arabesque has more levity and playfulness.
Overall, a pretty great release. Subtle enough for me to enjoy this type of scent; I will say that it lacks the crispness and transparency that I often get from Ormonde Jayne ingredients; it feels a tad more opaque as mentioned. Not my absolute favorite from the house, but in the upper half for sure.