AREEJ LE DORE
AQUILARIA BLOSSOM
2022
PERFUMER
Russian Adam
Taha Syed
Bitter mandarin leaf
yuzu
Bergamot
Orange
White ambergris
Neroli
Magnolia
Tonka
Oud
Frankincense
cedarwood
Patchouli
propolis
Myrrh
Vanilla
Saffron
Castoreum
Oakmoss
Benzoin
frankincense
Tobacco
White ambergris
Mysore Sandalwood
Styrax
Labdanum
Musk
Aquilaria Blossom is a collaboration between Areej Le Dore’s Russian Adam and Agar Aura’s Taya Syed. I’ve never had a chance to smell Agar Aura’s work before, so that was also a reason this release intrigued me.
I have to be honest and say that, while I enjoy Aqualiaria Blossom, it’s not what I hoped the scent profile would be like. I knew after I ordered based on the first impressions what I could expect, but solely based on the notes I had hoped for a more floral affair (as I think Russian Adam’s florals are generally great).
Instead, Aquilaria Blossom is all about woodiness and green citrus to me. It opens with an almost non-acidic herbal citrus and bitterness and adds a slightly inky, softened and ever so slightly charred woods. It instantly reminded me of Chinese Oud, but I much much prefer the lightness of Aquilaria Blossom. It comes across as a pretty, delicate scent, which can be deceivingly strong as the woodiness and earthiness comes through.
There’s a bit of sweetness and as mentioned, only barely a floral nuance to my nose. It’s how I picture a artisinal approach to a cedar scent smells like.
There are some non-explicitly named ouds in this composition, but Russian Adam states himself it’s not the focus of the scent and that’s noticeable.
I can see this being a great entry into the artisinal world or even, a nice one for people who are usually not into that style of perfumery, but Aqualiaria Blossom isn’t scratching that itch for me fully. It feels maybe a bit too safe and understated for it’s price point and hype, but it’s beautiful nonetheless.