MAISON FRANCIS KURKDJIAN
AQUA UNIVERSALIS FORTE

2011

PERFUMER
Francis Kurkdjian

Lemon
Bergamot

White Flower
Jasmine
Rose

Musk
Woody Notes

‘A more pronounced version of Aqua Universalis forte adds charm to this bright fresh fragrance. Aqua Universalis Maison Francis Kurkdjian eau de parfum offers a magnetic afterglow, sparkle and intensity which are heightened by green bergamot from Calabria, jasmine and rose absolutes from Egypt and Morocco, and light woods underscored by powerful musk. A musky floral perfume which vibrates on the skin like gold under the summer sun, elegantly robing men and women’s skin with its bright and intense trail.’ – Maison Francis Kurkdjian

When I first I sampled a couple of Kurkdjian’s fresher fragrances in-store on first impressions Aqua Vitae Forte was my favorite, followed by Aqua Universalis Forte. Let’s see how it holds up after sampling on skin.

I can’t remember if I smelled the non-Forte variant, so unfortunately I can’t draw comparisons to that.

The opening from Universalis Forte is quite tart. It has a clear lemon citrus scent that you can almost taste in your mouth, similar to Maison Margiela Under The Lemon Trees. The tartness was a bit of a negative on a test strip, but on skin it smooths out quickly. Actually, for how prominent the lemon is, it fades away completely rather fast. What you’re left with is a really clean, slightly floral scent, that renders connections to both swimming pools (the same chlorine skin type scent I get from Amouage Reflection Man) and fresh linen. It’s not the powdery deturgent texture that you often get with fresh linen type fragrances, but more so the actual freshly washed fabric. In the drydown the musks come through a bit more and it does get more powdery.

It’s inoffensive, clean, soft, fresh and perfectly suitable for warmer weather, but I think it would even work great as an office scent. It’s unisex, but can feel more feminine, especially if you’re not used to wearing florals. In my mind, this could be the women’s version of Amouage’s Reflection Man. Longevity is stellar, with solid projection for a fresh fragrances, especially for how soft this seems to be. Hopefully I get more of the Kurkdjian’s fresher fragrances to sample on skin soon.

Aqua Vitae Forte has a warmer touch and adds spices, so it should also work well on cooler days. Strictly for high heat, I’d say Universalis Forte takes the top spot.