BDK
AMBRE SAFRANO

2022

PERFUMER
Julien Rasquinet

frankincense
Saffron
Leather
Plum
Black Pepper
Vanilla Bean
Oak
Rose
Sandalwood

I’d tried Ambre Safrano before, but never properly wore it; it was better than I expected. IT was also, much sweeter than I remembered.

This is a very sweet, slightly smoky vanillic fragrance. It instantly reminded me of something I smelled, but I couldn’t put my finger on it directly. Then it hit me, this is Argos Triumph Of Bacchus (or Mancera Red Tobacco) at its core. Very similar, dense, oily warm vanillia with hints of spice, fruit and smoke. It lacks the apple and it has more of a leathery tinge than Triumph Of Bacchus.

More surprising perhaps, is that I find it even more vanillic and ambery. Almost forgoing the spices and leather completely in the drydown, for a custardy amber.

Quite big in performance as well, which made me get tired of it a tiny bit towards the final hours (I have the same issue with Triumph Of Bacchus), but a solid fragrance if you want to make a (sweet) statement. Definitely not my favorite BDK, but this might be better than the recent Vanille Leather.