BORTNIKOFF
AMBER COLOGNE
2019
PERFUMER
Dmitry Bortnikoff
Frangipani
Sweet Orange
Pink Grapefruit
White Grapefruit
Bergamot
Lemon
Jasmine Sambac
Sandalwood
cedarwood
Ambergris
Vanilla
Oud
In short; it didn’t live up to my expectations, but I do like it for what I get instead. After reviewing Amber Cologne, I got my hands on Musk Cologne which, while somewhat similar, I much prefer over this one. It’s less rind-like, less ‘fleshy’ and easier to wear. But what about Amber Cologne?
This is a citrus fragrance first and foremost. I expected a frangipani forward scent with a heavier base. I perceive it now as a orange scent with a frangipani edge. For the first hour I mainly get a lifelike, thick orange rind (Wafts From The Loft described it perfectly in their video on this fragrance). A hint of grapefruit, but mostly orange rind. The creaminess and tropical twist of frangipani is clearly there, but it’s second fiddle until some hours in. However, it adds a nice tinge. With how natural it smells, you can imagine peeling an unripe orange with your fingers and eating an orange ice cream at the same time.
The more I wear it, the more jasmine I detect on my skin; it is very floral… as a citrus. There’s a slight skankiness throughout, though 100% wearable. It’s closer to heady, than the usual indolic white floral. Vanilla is subtle in the drydown and I do not get oud, ambergris or even sandalwood. Maybe my nose is to blame or maybe the base is very minimal (and this is what I meant by it being more common than I’d expected).
Performance is average to good, which is all you can ask for with this style. The citrus smells natural, the creaminess is great. Amber Cologne is one of the better options for a warm weather fragrance in my opinion. Just go in with the right expectations and I think liking orange is a must in order to appreciate this.