GALLIVANT
Accra
2023
PERFUMER
Stephanie Bakouche
passion berry
eucalyptus
hot pepper
mango
papaya
davana
congac
carrot seed
coffee
saffron
cocoa
tobacco
styrax
leather skin
cedarwood
patchouli
vintage vinyl
smoky liatrix
musks
‘My curiosity for Africa started in my teens, reading the reportage of Ryszard Kapuściński, the novels of VS Naipaul, later discovering the playful writing of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. I was particularly attracted to West Africa. The colour, the style, the joie de vivre, the warmth … Glamorous Ghanaians gallivanting in London. Parisian Ivoirians in their voluptuous pagne dresses. My wanderlust mind was full of the larger-than-life style, the richness of West Africa. The alluringly iconic designs of Air Afrique. Art and sculpture. The Timbuktu fragrance we had in my time at L’Artisan Parfumeur – a gateway perfume to niche. So with this journey to Accra, I wanted to evoke a bygone glamour, the tropical sensuality, an enveloping heat … A taste of the exotic, the musicality, the gorgeous bursting colours of the famous kente waxed cloth. I wanted to feel the easy-going charm of Accra, a happy-go-lucky lightness of being…’ – Gallivant
Accra is a roller coaster and it’s what ‘niche perfumery’ should be all about. It opens with a dose of spices, but unconventional. Soapy and aromatic at the same time. It reminded me of stepping into a steam bath somehow. Maybe because of the eucalyptus. Despite that, I can simultaneously see it as an authentic dry spice mix.
The second facet is leather. When smelling it up close, leather is the most prominent. Green, herbal spices, saffron and supple leather. Yet, mixed with an iris-cedar heart (no iris is listed, but carrot seed is).
I’m surprised that I do not really get fruits from this despite listing berries, mango & papaya. I was afraid that it would be too fruity for my taste, but I don’t perceive them. Perhaps sadly, the same is true for coffee and cocoa. Maybe a cardamom-laced coffee, because of the spiciness, but no… I can’t say that I get any; it doesn’t veer in a sweeter, gourmandish direction one bit. Perhaps it just adds to a powdery texture.
As it dries, it warms up and gets sweeter. I mostly get slick, oily ‘hot pepper’ spiciness, with a sweet tobacco echo at this stage. It doesn’t smell the same, but picture the sweet oregano spiciness from Amouage Interlude 53, with its smoky edge. The leather is still there, but now there’s enough force to push back and I lose the iris-wood completely.
It’s a big transformation and it takes Accra to a more enjoyable space that fits with my expectations for it more. It does become a bit of a demanding wear and I start to miss the levity of the opening at times.
Accra averted my expectations, but ended up being quite amazing. Surprisingly herbal at first and nailing the spicy concept in the drydown. It has potential to be the best offering from Gallivant (along with Bukhara and Istanbul). The most complex and intriguing one for sure.
I thoroughly appreciate this kind of perfumery, so you will see Accra in my Best of 2023 awards.
