ANOMALIA
Abed
2022
PERFUMER
Ane Ayo
cinnamon
mineral and iodine accord
jasmine sambac absolute
tuberose
tiare
vanilla planifolia infusion
peru balsam absolute
myrrh
‘The crumpled sheets of the morning that are sensually caressing the bare skin, still warmed by sleep. We wake up slowly and voluptuously. Abed is a powdery, intimate and enveloping eau de parfum, twisted with a unique sweet-salty accord due to an inventive combination of tiare, cinnamon and an iodized accord. Unforgettable, it leaves the tender memory of the early morning on the skin all day long.’ – Anomalia
Abed was another nice surprise from Anomalia. It was bit hard to picture a ‘mineral, sweet-salty, floral fragrance’ based on the description, but it landed very well for me.
It was quite hard to wrap my brains around this as a complete scent. The first thing that hit me was the scent of an animalic floral vanilla. Not overly so and not directly in a challenging jasmine or tuberose way, but more the listed tiare. In particular, this reminds me a tiny bit of Perris Vanille de Tahiti or Ylang Ylang Nosy Be. Either way, with a lot of vanilla as a syrupy, ever so slightly indolic, tropical sun-tan lotion like sweetness.
However, the moment I tried to figure this fragrance out, the florals overtook the sweetness almost completely. Jasmine may be the biggest factor here. I don’t fully get much of mineralic or salty vibe though, but maybe more so a watery jasmine.
The next moment I find myself thinking of it more as a salted caramel, even slightly boozy tinge again. And an hour later I find myself thinking it’s really not all that sweet and definitely more floral.
This has been compared to Juliette Has a Gun Vanilla Vibes, which frankly, I don’t remember well enough, but it probably makes sense. It’s also been named alongside Moresque Regina, which I have and enjoy. It’s a similar scent profile for sure, but to me Regina is leaning more into the aquatic side, the feminine side and less the heaviness of the vanilla that’s in Abed.
The most fitting references I can think of may be both Ca Boum and Peau Salee by Teo Cabanel. I’d have to smell them side by side to say for sure, but I think both of those could be a good indication of this sweet, floral sun-tan style.
Abed is really nice fragrance though and one of the best from Anomalia.