FRIENDLY FUR
A REBOURS
2012
PERFUMER
Mark Buxton
Violet
Green Mandarin
Freesia
Orange Blossom
Galbanum
Bergamot
Cardamom
Caraway
Leather
Black Rose
Jasmine
Osmanthus
Carnation
Magnolia
Civet
Castoreum
Musk
Ambergris
Oakmoss
Patchouli
Cedarwood
Labdanum
To be honest, A Rebours was a pass when I first smelled it, so I set it aside for a while. Cumin isn’t listed, but either it’s in there or the animalics (civet, castoreum) mixed with perhaps caraway or some of the other notes create quite a sweaty, body odor in A Rebours, that threw me off initially.
Of course I gave it a fair chance and I must say the scent grew on me a lot. I still get that sweaty quality, but I do also find a lot of beautiful aspects. It’s a very watery floral with freesia and rose standing out for me, making it quite uplifting. It’s green and a bit spicy. The brand speaks of ‘sun rays falling on a cozy forest glade’ and that’s exactly the image that comes to mind.
I really enjoy the texture; while watery, it’s not one of those soft flower petal-rose water scents. It’s fizzy, a little bit acidic and it’s radiating a bit with the animalics; almost feels like it could be poisonous. A fragrance that came to mind for a vague reference is Les Parfums de Rosine Elogé du Vert; a rose scent with a unique green pepper and ginger blast. It has a similar tart floral with a green spicy tinge.
Not the easiest wear for my taste, but I’m glad I gave it more time.