BON PARFUMEUR
107 – Nappa Tuberosa

2024

PERFUMER
Serge de Oliveira

bergamot
saffron

tuberose
ylang-ylang

suede
Papyrus
cashmeran
Patchouli

‘Ludovic’s inspiration spoke to me straight away, and the tribute is paid by the narcotic tuberose, symbol of the Grasse sunset, wrapped in a deer cocoon’ – Serge de Oliveira

‘A stroll through Grasse, city of a thousand scents, city of leather craftsmanship and flowers. The bells are ringing, night is falling over the heights of the peaceful town, and the tuberoses are exhaling their narcotic fragrance. Combining twilight tuberose with tanned leather – a tribute to the heritage of Grasse. In the top note, the freshness of bergamot meets warm, spicy, fruity saffron. At the heart, tuberose bursts forth, releasing its creamy, soft and bewitching floral scents. At the base, suede acts as a protective nest for the flower, with its soft leather effect.’ – Jovoy

After the great impression that 502 – Iris Cartagena made on me, it was time to dive into Nappa Tuberosa, which was released alongside it.

I would say this is a safe, but well-done tuberose. I found it hard to say a lot of things about this fragrance as it almost wears like a soliflore to me; meaning I don’t detect many notes or facets to discuss here. It’s a tuberose scent throughout.

The tuberose is not indolic at all to my nose. Perhaps, if you’re only used to tuberose in popular designer fragrances, this could feel a bit different to you. It does feel natural to me, maybe a tiny bit heady, but not indolic. It’s bright, fresh, floral. It reminds me of flower petals, not roots, stems and not the fleshier, denser type of tuberose.

Also not the sweet and bubblegum or sharp green tuberose. Definitely one of the most easy going delicate floral ones, which is a style that I enjoy, and I appreciate that it doesn’t get too sweet. It keeps it bright, but mature and subtle. The same goes for the listed basenotes; no strong leather-suede, no harsh woodiness, it’s all pretty subtle and wears nicely.

Not a fragrance that ‘does a lot’ for me, but nice nonetheless.